Day 5 - Heading Home

I began writing this post sitting on the sea wall on Saibai Island early in the morning as the sun rises on another day. The peace, serenity and quietness of an early Saibai morning seemed like an appropriate backdrop. It was with mixed feelings that we prepared to leave today. The island lifestyle is so diverse and very different to the city life we have in Yeppoon.  The experiences we had on Thursday Island were so different to that of Saibai and Dauan. The village life of these two islands makes me wonder how hard it must be.  

As I sat the departure shed I watched two little boys playing and sitting with their grandma. They seemed so happy and playful with Deb and Cathy. As the plane landed and we were about to board their demeanour changed immediately from happiness to sadness not wanting their grandmother to leave. We boarded the plane and the pilot taxied the runway. As we sat at the top of the runway I looked across and could see Samukie and his family waving to family who were leaving. I imagined thoughts running through my head about leaving a small community of 150 people, one road, and one store.  Also, the sea forms so much of what there is to do.  Sitting in that moment, on that plane on the island I could kind of feel what it must be like for a 12yr old Saibai Island boy to leave everything he has known.  The only saving grace is the knowledge that others have gone before and done it. There are undoubtedly boys on that plane in Year 11 & 12.  That reinforces the extra pressures that our community boys have and how quickly they must grow up.   

Day 4 - Dauan Adventures

After such an amazing day before being shown the beauty of Saibai we were extremely optimistic about our trip to Dauan.  There were many current students, prospective students and ex-students that we were excited to see.  We had a late morning start due to the tide but eventually made our way to the waterfront gizibos waiting for our pick up.  Perhaps, it was more our eagerness to get there but late morning turned into mid-morning til lunch time as we waited for our pick up.  Finally, though just after lunch you could see this boat coming around the corner like a bullet piercing the water.  Our ride finally arrived and you could immediately see our happiness pick up again.  Needless to say I jokingly gave it to Kearney when he got here about running on island time.  It is great to catch up with past students and Kearney Binawel (2009 senior) is no exception.

After Kearney had dropped off a few supplies he had us over Dauan in no time.  As we arrived at Dauan it was easy noticeable to see the difference.  Saibai is a mud flat island with mangroves whereas Dauan is more of a tropical island with sandy white beaches and clearer water.  However, the first thing that you notice as you step off the boat are these ginormous boulders all over the island and even down near the water.  In a previous life Dauan Island was one of the last peeks of the Great Dividing Range. 

After signing in at the council office we were looking to embark on a journey through Dauan village.  Deb had previously rung Allan Bigie but no answer.  The receptionist in the office rang for Samukie but he was too busy to come down.  Relectuntly, Tabipa Mau came to the rescue as tour guide.  It seemed the students didn't want us there, but I can't understand why.  Fortunately, the old boys were the different.  Kearney had called another old boy Dawson Mau (senior 2008) who came down with his mother and some prospective students.  Deb enjoyed catching up with Margaret (Dawson's mum) and we all enjoyed catching up with Dawson.  As I'd gone off exploring with Tabipa and some of the locals I'd missed Dawson's triumphant arrival however, I'm told he's said, "Where's Wally!" as I walked around the corner.  

There were lots of continued catch ups with Dawson and Kearney throughout the afternoon.  Kearney kindly took us for a tour in the company car around Dauan Island.  From one end of the island to the other we drove past houses the many past and current students from the island.  We looked at the power station, helicopter pad, the tip, footy field and heartbreak hill.  Although, Kearney proudly told us that Dauan's hill was worse than St Brendan's.  As we had talked to most parents and students our last activity was to locate the elusive Allan Bigie.  It's an island so it can't be that hard.  I had previously gone to his house with Samukie and Tabipa.  Samukie knocked on his window but no answer, he then asked the little sister who called out but he had just left.  This time I took reinforcements (Deb, Cathy and Sue) to locate Allan.  This time we were greeted by mum who also told us Allan was here but he just went off with his cousins at grandmas place.  Went past a number houses and still no Allan.  Anae (Allan's mum) had said he was home before but asked who was there at the door.  She had said to him, "Samukie, Tabipa and some light skin fella". Anae said Allan took off after that!  Finally, we cornered him at the shop as he was about to get in the car and drive off with cousins.  His mother and little sisters yelling out to him and these four people who sees at school ruining his holidays, he must have thought he was Harrison Ford in The Fugitive.  Allan succumbed to the pursuit and like paparazzi we took photo after photo with him and the rest of the cast. 

Kearney Binawel & Dawson Mau doing a tribute to their coach Mr Hansen.

As the weather picked up we decided it was time to be off back to Saibai.  We reluctantly said our goodbyes to Dauan Island, Kearney and Dawson. Our skipper Kearney readied the boat aided by his first mate Lincoln (who will be starting at SBC in 2015) they took us back to Saibai. The ride was a little bumpy, not for the feint hearted but exciting! Twenty short minutes later we were back on Saibai. 

Kearney and Dawson were absolutely amazing to us today. It was such a privilege to see how Kearney has grown from the little island boy into the confident Constable K. Binawel and Dawson as a reservist regularly shipping out for training with the army. They are great role models for Torres Strait Island students at St Brendan's.

Day 3 - Saibai Thrills

The day began with an early morning flight as we boarded the 10-seater plane for our journey from Horn Island to Saibai Island.  There were a few slight differences to a 'normal' commercial flight like putting your bags at the back, collapsable seats and having to blow up your own life jacket but we had a skilled pilot so there were no worries.  It was simply breathtaking flying over the islands  seeing the picturesque blue water dotted with islands.  

After about 1hr and a short drop off at Boigu Island we landed on Saibai.  You can read all the reviews you want but until you fly over it you don't realise how close Saibai actually is to PNG.  How close it is to a totally different lifestyle and how much of a culture shock it is for a young boy from the Torres Strait to come to the regional city life of Yeppoon.  My immediate thought as we hit the tarmac and the pilot turned at the end of the runway was about the little Year 8s who start at our College.  How daunting it must be on your first flight, with your parents waving goodbye at the airport, leaving everything you've known behind to head off to boarding school. I tried as hard as I could to imagine those emotions in that moment on the tarmac and I'm sure I didn't even come close.

We collected our bags, made the short walk to the council office to check in at the guest houses and then head off to explore Saibai island village.  Slowly walking along the main road on the beachfront feeling the ocean breeze and hot tropical air we were greeted by a few young, carefree and happy Saibai Island girls playing on the beach who just loved the camera.  We made our way down to Robson Aniba's house and met his mother Millicent and his little brother Jack. Robson was out setting traps but returned soon enough to take us on a guided tour.  We met friendly locals and finally saw all those addresses belonging to our current and ex-students like the Dau's, Warusam's and Wosomo's. 

 

In the afternoon we were treated to an amazing experience as Robson offered to  take us on his boat and show us the sandy beach and camping grounds around the other side of the island.  It's usually off limits for visitors to go anywhere but the main road along the front the island but with Robson we were able to go and see places you normally couldn't.  It was an exhilarating dinghy ride and before we knew it we were at the beach. Robson displayed so much knowledge talking about the ocean, marine life, tides and plant life.  Deb and I were fortunate enough to feel the sand between our toes while Cathy and Sue guarded the boat incase of approaching crocs. They did a fantastic job at that aswell with Cathy even swimming into the mangroves to make sure or so she said.  Admist the enjoyable time it was impossible to miss the man Robson is. He has this aura about him at home in his culture.  The way he looked after us today and made us feel welcome in his home community with his people made the day even more special.  

The highlight though of the day was in the morning with the PNG locals coming over to trade.  Cathy was hanging for the markets and the rest of is were all as excited. Typical male I was I knew why I wanted and was in and out quickly with my purchases.  Everything you buy here has to get check by quarantine and is wrapped in a black garbage bag for travel so at least we will have a present to open when we get home!  

Day 2 - A Lesson in History

After a slow morning brekky on a fresh tropical morning I was reminded of a quote I found on Twitter saying, "money may not buy happiness but pondering your problems on a tropical island would sure beat pondering them on your couch".  It was great to take a long moment first thing in the morning as opposed to the normal hustle and bustle that goes on in the school community.

However, Thursday Island wasn't always the friendly and welcoming place it is now. At one point in time it was part of the last line of defence against an invading army.  The theme for NAIDOC 2014 was 'serving country, centenary and beyond'. It seemed fitting to see the sight of Australia's last line of defence, the somewhat forgotten contribution of Indigenious servicemen that is patently clear to see here on Thursday Island.  

Green Hill Fort was constructed between 1891-1893 to defend against a possible Russian invasion.  It's two year excavation and construction was completed by 30 men.  The fort was deactivated during the 1920s but was reactivated in 1942 with the impending Japanese invasion.  It was used in conjunction with other island outposts during World War II with many Torres Strait Island serving their community and country.  Following the end of the war the Bearau of Meterology used Green Hill Fort as a weather station from the early 1950s until 1990.   

Aside from its wartime history it was also an amazing viewing point to see out and around the nearby islands of the Torres Strait.  

The other highlight of day 2 was visiting the Gab Titui Cultural Centre.  The culture, history and art contained in the walls of Gab Titui was amazing.  The history in story and artefacts about each island was not only informative but eye-opening. From dance artefacts to traditional stories and rich artwork the ability to visually appreciate  the diverse Torres Strait history and tradition.  Definitely a recommended visit on Thursday Island and an amazing educational experience. 

Day 1 - Island Calling!

In the early hours of Monday morning we dragged ourselves to Rockhampton airport to embark on the long journey north to the Torres Strait with a quick detour in Brisbane.  A chance to visit the St Brendan's College boys in their home community and finally get to meet the parents and community members we frequently talk to via phone and email. 

After nine hours, three plane flights and one smooth ferry ride we arrived at the picturesque Thursday Island. A balmy 29 degrees, cool island breeze and friendly locals made this place feel every bit warm and welcoming.  After setting our bags down it was off to explore the Thursday Island township.  

Perhaps, the most striking aspect of this bustling remote metropolis was the unique mix of ex-pat and Torres Strait Island culture. Sure there was the laid back feel of the island lifestyle but there was the place was busy. Council workers, tradies, office workers and executives all moving about their business but making sure to stop and enjoy life at the appropriate times, with long lunches and sociable afternoon gatherings. 

The Torres Strait lifestyle was not hard to miss and the prominence of culture throughout the community was amazing to see.  The main boardwalk was littered with a historical timeline and cultural knowledge. From Luis Vaz De Torres in 1606, the arrival of Christianity, pearling industry beginnings in 1885, World War II, the Mabo decision right up until today it provided a visual showing the rich and steeped history of Thursday Island and the Torres Strait.